Sew a DIY hang-up organizer using my free sewing pattern and just one yard of fabric! This easy to make organizer has 5 pockets to help you keep all your things right where you need them and easy to find. There’s a large eyelet at the top so you can hang it on a peg board, a metal hook, or anywhere else with a removable Command brand hook.
These easy step by step instructions with photos make this project do-able for an experienced or novice sewer.
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DIY Hang Up Organizer Details
You may already be familiar with these other organizer patterns I’ve written:
See all these and more in 11+ Sewing Projects to Make You More Organized.
This newest organizer pattern is special because of the awesome size and shape. It’s just right for holding mail (a few magazines), pens and pencils, keys, electronics, and other things that can’t get lost.
In my sewing room, I’m using it to hold cutting tools, fabric marking pens, wonderclips, and patterns that I want to use soon.
The mesh pockets make it easy to find things, but you can leave them off if you prefer.
No lining is needed and no wrong sides of fabric are showing because of a fun technique that I used. Thanks to HeatnBond lite fusible adhesive, you will love how quickly this sewing project comes together!
The finished size of my hang-up wall organizer is approximately 16” tall, 10” wide, and 4 1/2” deep. Below you’ll find free printable pattern templates for cutting some of the fabric pieces. All of the other pieces are cut using dimensions, and I’m including detailed cutting instructions so you can make this organizer with just one yard of fabric.
Yes, just one yard of fabric!
I’ll show you lots of tips and tricks along the way to make this project beginner friendly and fun! I used some adorable fabric covered with sewing pins. It’s from the Make Time collection by Aneela Hoey for Moda and as soon as I spotted it, I knew it would be perfect.
The materials list includes links to the other products I used so you can get the same great results.
Easy DIY Hang Up Organizer Pattern
Print the template at 100% (do not enlarge or reduce). You will need to tape the templates together. Template A is in 3 pieces and Template B is in 2 pieces. Assembly instructions are written on the template pieces.
- 1 yard of fabric (quilting cotton or lightweight canvas recommended)
- 1 yard of HeatnBond lite fusible adhesive (17” wide)
- less than 1/4 yard of ByAnnie mesh fabric
- 5/8 yard fold over elastic, 5/8” wide
- 1 extra large eyelet. If you don’t already have some that you like, my favorite kind are from Dritz. I recommend the extra large size. Make sure you buy a package that includes the tools if you don’t already have them.
- I made the back of my organizer stiffer with a 6” x 10” piece of Peltex 71P single sided fusible stabilizer (optional).
- If you like, you can also add a false bottom using my easy tutorial.
You will also need:
- a heavy duty sewing machine needle (100/16 suggested)
- a fabric marking pen
- an acrylic ruler, rotary cutter and cutting mat, scissors, pins, and coordinating thread
- a sewing stiletto (very helpful – I use mine all the time!)
Follow these instructions in order so that you will have enough fabric!
1. From the 1 yard of quilting cotton or lightweight canvas fabric, first cut off the selvages. Then cut 3 pieces in this order:
- 1 piece 36” tall x 8-10” wide (from one side)
- 2 pieces 17” tall x 34” wide
You will have a narrow strip of fabric leftover.
2. Cut a piece of HeatnBond fusilble adhesive 17” x 34”. Do not remove the paper yet.
3. Adhere the HeatnBond fusible adhesive to the wrong side of one of the 17” x 34” fabric pieces.
First lay the adhesive on your ironing board with the textured side up. Lay the fabric piece on top, wrong side down and line up all the edges. Press to fuse. Work slowly, pressing each section for about 10 seconds. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for more information.
4. Allow the piece to cool completely before removing the paper. First peel back a corner to see if the adhesive is completely fused to the fabric. If it is not, press some more.
Remove the paper from the wrong side of the fabric.
5. Lay the fabric with the shiny side up. Then place the remaining 17” x 34” piece of fabric on top, wrong side down. Line up the edges as best as you can and press again to fuse the pieces together. Lay the paper on top of the fabrics to help you press the edges without getting adhesive on your iron.
This gives you a double sided fabric that is slightly stiff – perfect for our organizer.
Make sure you cut your fabric following these instructions step by step so that you will have enough!
- From the your double sided fabric piece trim the edges as little as possible, and then make 2 vertical cuts as seen above to make 3 pieces:
- 2 pieces 10” wide by 16 1/2” – 17” tall
- 1 piece 13” wide by 16 1/2” x 17” tall
2. From the first (10” wide) section, cut out the back of the organizer using Template A.
3. From the middle (10” wide) section, cut the following pieces:
- 1 rectangle 4 1/2” x 10” (the organizer bottom)
- 2 rectangles 4 1/2” x 12 1/4” (side pieces)
You will have a little bit leftover.
4. From the last (13” wide) section, cut:
- 1 rectangle 5 1/2” x 13” (front pockets)
- 1 rectangle 8” x 10” (organizer front)
Again, you will have a little bit leftover.
5. Stack the two 4 1/2” x 12 1/4” side pieces together. Use Template B to cut them to the correct shape as seen above.
Special note: If these pieces are not the same on both sides (such as, if you used two different fabrics), place the pieces right sides together.
Make the Binding
1. Use the 36” x 8-10” piece of fabric cut first to make the binding (it’s not double sided). Use a ruler and rotary cutter as shown above to cut 8 strips at a 45 degree angle. The strips should be 2 1/4” wide.
Tip: If you prefer, you can make the 2 1/4” wide bias binding using a different fabric. My How to Make Bias Binding from a Fat Quarter Tutorial is perfect for this! You will need at least 81” (or 2 1/4 yards) of bias binding.
2. Sew the bias strips together at an angle with a 1/4” seam allowance. Press the seams open.
3. Then fold the bias strip in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) and press. Set the binding aside for now.
Make the Mesh Pockets
These pockets are optional and may be left out.
The video player on this page will play a video that shows how to bind the edge of the mesh fabric with fold over elastic. You can also watch it on my YouTube channel here.
1. From the mesh fabric, cut 3 pieces:
- 1 piece 5 1/2” tall x 10” wide (back pocket)
- 2 pieces 5 1/2” tall x 4 1/2” wide (side pockets)
Cut 4 pieces of 5/8” wide fold over elastic (FOE):
- 2 pieces that are 10” long
- 2 pieces that are 4 1/2” long
2. Wrap one of the 10” long pieces of FOE around the top edge of the 5 1/2” x 10” piece of mesh fabric. Secure with wonderclips.
3. Sew along the edge of the elastic, catching both sides.
- Lengthen your stitch length to a 3, or whatever length you like for topstitching.
- If possible, move your needle position over to the right so that the fold over elastic is right on top of one of the feed dogs (as shown in the photo above).
- To prevent waviness, stretch the elastic the slightest little bit.
4. Sew FOE to the top and bottom edges of the 5 1/2” x 10” piece of mesh, and the top edge only of the two 5 1/2” x 4 1/2” pieces of mesh fabric.
Attach the Mesh Pockets
1. Lay the organizer back piece on your workspace right side up. Use a ruler and the fabric marking pen to draw a horizontal line 4” above the bottom edge.
2. Pin the larger mesh pocket to the organizer back with the bottom edge of the pocket along the line that you drew. Use as many pins as you need to hold the pocket in place.
3. Sew along the bottom edge of the pocket on top of the FOE.
4. Then sew the sides of the mesh pocket to the organizer, stitching about 1/8” from the side edges.
Trim away any extra mesh that hangs off the sides of the organizer, if needed.
5. Use pins or wonderclips to secure the two 5 1/2” x 4 1/2” pockets to the bottom half of the side pieces.
Make sure that the side pieces are laying face up and mirror one another as shown in the photo above.
6. Sew around the sides and the bottom edges of the two smaller mesh pockets about 1/8” from the edge.
The mesh pockets are done!
Make the Front Pockets
1. Take your double sided 5 1/2” x 13” pocket piece to your ironing board.
Fold the top edge over to the wrong side by 1/4” twice and press.
Fold the bottom edge up by 1/4” once and press.
2. Sew close to the fold on the top edge to make a 1/4” double hem. Sew close to the raw edge on the bottom to make a 1/4” single hem.
3. Press both side edges to the back by 1/2”.
4. On the front of the pocket, use the fabric marking pen to draw a vertical line down the center.
5. Place the 8” tall x 10” wide front piece on your workspace right side up. Use the fabric marking pen to draw the following lines:
- Draw a vertical line down the middle of the piece.
- Draw two more vertical lines, each one 1” away from a side edge.
- Draw a horizontal line 1 1/2” above the bottom edge.
6. Lay the front pocket piece on top. Line up the bottom edge of the pocket with the horizontal line on the front piece. Line up the vertical center line on the pocket with the vertical center line on the front piece and pin along the center line on the pocket.
Pin the side edges of the pocket along the vertical lines that are 1” from the side edges.
7. Topstitch neatly along the center line on the pocket.
Then sew the side edges of the pocket in place, topstitching close to the fold.
8. Flatten the bottom edge of the pockets, making 1/2” pleats at the side edges and next to the center line of topstitching. Use plenty of pins to hold the pleats and the bottom edge of the pockets in place.
9. Topstitch across the bottom edge of the pockets, sewing on top of the previous stitching for the single hem.
Tip: You will need a heavy duty needle for this step. I used a size 100/16 topstitch needle.
Sew the Front and Sides Together
1. Pin or clip the organizer sides to the front piece, right sides together. The mesh pockets should be face down against the front pleated pockets.
Note the way that the shorter sides of the side pieces match up with the side edges of the front piece. The longer (pointed) side edges of the side pieces are not sewn at this time.
2. Sew the sides to the front piece with a 1/4” seam allowance.
Gently press the seam allowances toward the front piece.
3. From your long piece of 2 1/4” bias binding that has been folded and pressed, cut a piece that is 22” long.
Place the front/side piece wrong side up on your workspace and pin or clip the binding to the top edge. Center and line up the raw edges of the binding with the top raw edge. You will have a little extra binding.
4. Sew the binding to the top edge with a 1/4” seam allowance.
5. Fold the binding over to the front of the piece and topstitch it down close to the folded edge. Trim away any extra binding from the corners.
Attach the Organizer Front to the Back
1. Place the organizer back on your workspace right side up. Then lay the organizer front on top, also right side up. Pin or clip the side edges to the organizer back.
2. Sew the side edges with a 1/4” seam allowance.
3. Cut a piece a piece of binding 40” long. Pin or clip the binding around the side and top curved edge of the organizer on the back side.
Sew the binding to the back of the organizer with a 1/4” seam allowance.
4. Fold the binding over to the front and topstitch it down close to the folded edge. Trim away any extra binding from the bottom corners.
Attach the Bottom of the Organizer
Attaching the bottom won’t be difficult if you follow step by step!
1. Use wonderclips to secure the long edges of the 4 1/2” x 10” bottom piece to the front and back bottom edges of the organizer.
Then use wonderclips to secure the side edges.
2. Sew the bottom piece with a 1/4” seam allowance, starting on the long edge in the back. You should be sewing these together with the bottom piece up.
Sew until you are 1/4” from the corner. Your needle should be in the side seam of the piece underneath (or very close to it.
Pivot with the needle down and sew the next side edge. Stop sewing with your needle down when you are 1/4” away from the corner.
Once more, pivot and sew the next edge with a 1/4” seam allowance.
Continue sewing around the bottom piece until it is completely attached. If needed trim the edges around the bottom of the organizer to make them even before binding.
Bind the Bottom Edge
The remaining binding is for the bottom edge. I found it easier to start sewing it on without clipping it to the edge first.
1. Line up the raw edges of the remaining binding strip with the bottom back edge of the organizer. Leave a tail about 6” long before beginning to sew. Use a 1/4” seam allowance to sew the binding to the bottom of the organizer.
As before, stop with your needle down 1/4” away from the corner and pivot to the next side. Continue sewing the binding around the bottom of the organizer until you reach the back again about 6” away from where you started.
2. Bring the ends of the binding together in the middle and fold the edges back. Crease the folds with your fingernail. Carefully cut away the extra binding 1/4” past the creases.
3. Place the ends of the binding together and sew with a 1/4” seam allowance. Finger press the seam open.
4. Re-fold the binding as before and finish sewing it to the bottom of the organizer.
5. Wrap the binding around to the front edge and topstitch it down close to the fold. Work slowly, using a sewing stiletto to help you hold the binding in place.
Attach the Extra Large Eyelet
Refer to the manufactures instructions when attaching the eyelet.
1. At the top of the hang up organizer (either the front or the back), make a mark that is centered and 1” below the curved edge.
2. Following the instructions on the eyelet package, lay one of the eyelet pieces over the mark and trace around the inside edge of the eyelet. Cut along the edges of this circle using small sharp scissors.
3. Push the larger piece of the eyelet through the hole from the front side and then place the smaller ring on top at the back side.
4. With the smaller ring shaped tool underneath and the large stamping tool on top, pound hard (and confidently!) with a hammer several times. Make sure you are working on a hard surface. I moved to our tiled bathroom floor.
Please read the instructions for your eyelets to make sure there are no differences in installation.
Apply Stiff Stabilizer to the Back (Optional)
If you prefer you can use a 6” x 10” (or larger) piece of single sided fusible Peltex 71F to make the organizer back stiffer.
2. Press well to fuse. Let it cool completely before moving it from your ironing board.
Hang up your adorable organizer!
I would love to see the hang up organizers you make with my free pattern and know how and where you use them! Please post a photo to instagram and tag me @sewcanshe so I can take a look!